I've had a bit of time off climbing recent for a holiday down in Newquay, part of which was spent at Boardmasters Surf & Music Festival.

However, I did manage to climb once, out of three attempts! After getting lost trying to find the boulders at Tintagel, and then visiting Godrevy at totally the wrong time, I managed to get a day at Roche Rock. I didn't climb much there, but did manage to spot a fantastic line. After doing it from the obvious start I decided the foot-block felt wrong, and decided that if I was going to use it, I should start from it.

After a while I managed to start the problem from a super-low-start, into the existing climb. After checking UKC to see if it was a recorded climb, I found out it was new. I uploaded it and discovered that the climb above has been done, but not the start. The grade is around V6 and is very much a short-mans climb. See a video here (unfortunately my camera-woman messed about with the phone, and missed the first move!)

Once home from my holiday (and having climbed twice in 3 weeks!) I decided I needed to get outside. Weather hasn't been great but I have managed to get out on some limestone, and even a spot of easy grit bouldering.

I'm in the process of building a training area in my new garage, with the hope of achieving font 7B before 2012!

Fingers crossed! (But mostly hanging from my Beastmaker!)

Tom L

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