Raven Tor
29th Jul 2011
After a good day at Two Tier the day before, I was feeling a bit tired and skin levels were low so I didnt have high hopes for my climbing, however Addy (crazy spaniard) was psyched so we headed to Raven Tor.
I started by putting the clips in Sardine (7b+) going bolt to bolt trying to remember the moves and cleaning the holds as I went. The crux sequence involves a really poor slopey left hand pinch, the footholds are massive but it is really easy to ping off the hold just as you are reaching for the next one, especially if it is at all warm (which it was!!)
I had a quick top rope and climbed up to mid crux before falling then managed to climb from just beneath the crux to the top, a good link but I was pretty certain that with a little luck and a well brushed hold, I would be able to link the route in one!
I had a good long rest while Addy worked the moves.
When it was my go I was feeling strong and just managed to battle my way through the crux to a pretty good shakeout, I made sure I used the rests well and managed to fight my way to the top clean :)
I rested again whilst Addy managed to lead the route, when it was my go again the sun had fully come out and I was still feeling a bit pumped so rather than going for a redpoint I decided to just have another top rope as I was not feeling at all confident........ I linked it clean again!
By this point I was feeling ruined and was seriously lacking skin so we decided to try 'Tin Of' Addy put in the clips and we each had a top rope of the route, it shares the start with Sardine so this part was fine but the crux sequence of 5 hand movements on tiny slopey crimps felt desperate, partly due to the hot sweaty conditions and party because I was shattered!
Need to get back to the Tor asap to finish Sardine and Tin Of properly and then maybe have a go at Body Machine Direct (7c+)
Simon
Add a comment