Little Tom's Big Adventures

9th Jul 2011

Tom at Stanage

I've been very fortunate with my shift patterns lately, managing to get outside 3 weekends in a row! I've been focusing on building experience with trad climbing, testing gear, and even took a few falls!

Unfortunately the weather has been far too hot for any hard gritstone climbing, but with two members of the "Team" with finger injuries, pulling on limestone was out. The hardest part of any day out was then to be the venue choice; somewhere away from the crowds (some mad people are actually brought out by hot days!!), shaded, and with a good selection of routes.

So it usually ended up with us visiting one of two fantastic venues: the quiet walls of Curbar, with a lovely short walk-in, a huge range of brilliant routes, and even some top class bouldering for the end of the day! And Stanage High Neb/Marble Wall, with a longer walk in, but fantastic routes all the same, giving nothing away. (I'm not a keen walker - so when Kinder was suggested I felt I had to decline... for now!)

We even walked along from High Neb to the bouldering at Microbe, in the new Peak District Bouldering Guide, and did the classic Font 6a, Love Handles. Photographer Nadir Khan was there with some guys on Old Salt, with a direct finish! He took some photos of me on the fantastic Font 5+, Microbe, which you can see for yourself!

I also managed to get out to Parisellas Cave for the first time ever, and had a play on a few problems. Very polished but good all the same! I managed one 7A, and fell off Left Wall Traverse (7A start) right at the end! I'll have to go back for that!

Highlights of the month include:

Getting stuck on the slab of High Neb Edge, after flashing the crux! (After a rope was thrown down to me I proceded to cruise the moves! Damn my poor headgame!)

Being defeated on 3 (3!!) separate days attempting to climb Terrazza Crack clean, with LPP, which included my first ever trad fall!

Fallen Archangel (Font 6C) at High Neb, a fantastic boulder problem up a great block.

Flashing Jeepers Creepers (Next to Fallen Archangel) - This was especially a good feeling as the finish is airy and exposed.

Climbing above gear on bouldery moves on Left Hand Tower, a massive sandbag at VS 4c, but a fantastic route all the same!

Taking multiple falls on Saddy (E2 5c) at Curbar, on to a tested cam that half slipped out! Upon inspection only 2 of the 4 lobes were in the crack, but holding well! After a while I finally managed to top out, and this is definitely one I'd like to go back and get clean!

Getting Mermaid (Font 7A) at Burbage Bridge, in the dark after a day at work.

And finally visiting Gradbach Hill, a venue covered in the new Peak District Bouldering Guide, and getting every problem on the boulder there, including The Green Streak (Font 7A) - my first ever 7A climbed in a single session, with no previous knowledge.

Bring on the winter for some hard Grit bouldering!!!

Tom L

Venue
Peak District

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