Bolt clipping and Bouldering at Rubicon
10th May 2011
After a whole bunch of sport climbing recently, mostly concentrating on a high volume of relatively easy climbing, I had decided that it was time to try something a bit harder..... and so Craig and I (Simon) found ourselves at the picturesque crag of Rubicon near Water-Cum-Jolly in the Peak District.
After a non-existant warmup I soon found myself putting the clips in a particularly crimpy and tough 8a, The Sissy. As I was dogging my way up the route I had somehow managed to convinced myself that I could see a sequence and that the holds did not seem too bad and so as I was lowering to the ground, I was quite eager to give it a go! Oh dear! Could my judgement have been any worse? It turns out that the route is utterly desperate and both Craig and myself got utterly shut down and just ended up losing a fair bit of skin to the super sharp crimps!
We decided to sack off the 8a and Craig quickly onsighted the classic roof climb Rubicon (7a+), I followed him but had to rest as I was shattered. We had had enough of ropes for the day!
After a very brief bouldering session on Kudos Wall where it turns out every problem is nails, we decided to call it a day.
If I am going to get any decent sport climbing done after I get back from the alps then I am going to need to get some serious training in!
Back to Wales on Friday to take care of some unfinished business!
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